Just about every frozen treats on sticks, homemade or bought, drip everywhere. Unlike us grown-ups who race to finish our treats before even wasting a drop, our kids dawdle, savor every lick leaving a big sticky mess all-over. Keeping them from enjoying these delightful popsicles is simply not an option! Finally, I found a work-around to satisfy both my kids and me.

A few years back, I found these push-up pop molds
that were great from a parent’s standpoint. They come apart so it’s easy to clean and they keep the frozen treats from dripping down the sides. The problem is they sometimes drip from the inside down the handle! But with a slight modification, these molds are still my favorite to use for all our homemade frozen treats.

To make these push-up pop molds not so messy,

• take the handle and enclosure apart;
• cut approximately a 3″ x 4″ rectangular piece of rag – cotton terry cloth soaks well;
• fold in thirds and wrap around the handle and assemble.

A side benefit (at least for me) is this setup naturally lessens how much frozen treat can be packed in!

Repellent spray and stick on the left; itch relief ointment and stick on the right

The other ingredients I use are witch hazel extract, soybean oil, lanolin, and beeswax, some of which have healing properties but in these recipes, they are used as the carrier or base for the essential oils. It is a matter of preference as to the type of product you’re going for – a cooling spray, a convenient stick, or a soothing cream. Using essential oil based bug repellent works great and makes me feel better about the amount of repellent I use regularly on myself and my kids. These recipes are very easy to make and last all season, probably longer but I usually just start over every year; there are no oil and water emulsions to mess with. I’m also entering this post in the Mountain Rose Herbs recipe contest – medicinal.

Bug repellent spray

This spray has a cooling effect but it doesn’t last long and must be applied often.
Ingredients by weight:

• witch hazel extract
• citronella oil
• peppermint essential oil

Fill a spray bottle with witch hazel extract. For a diluted version, use equal parts witch hazel extract and water. Add one drop each of the citronella and peppermint essential oil for each fl oz of liquid.

Bug repellent stick – makes approx. 2 oz

Ingredients by weight:

• 0.5 oz beeswax
• 1.5 oz soybean oil
• 2 drops each citronella and peppermint essential oils

Heat oil and beeswax in a microwave or water bath until dissolved. Add essential oils. Pour into stick tube and refrigerate about 5 minutes to let it set. Let sit at room temperature until fully set, at least an hour.

Bug bite relief ointment – makes approx. 2 oz

Ingredients by weight:

• 0.3 oz beeswax
• 0.7 oz lanolin
• 1.0 oz soybean oil
• 0.04 oz camphor

Heat beeswax, lanolin, and oil in a microwave or water bath until dissolved. Add camphor. Let cool. Blend with a stick blender and store in a jar. Alternative: omit lanolin and use 1.7 oz soybean oil.

Bug bite relief stick – makes approx. 2 oz

Ingredients by weight:

• 0.4 oz beeswax
• 1.6 oz lanolin
• 0.04 oz camphor

Heat lanolin and beeswax in a microwave or water bath until dissolved. Add camphor. Pour into stick tube and refrigerate about 5 minutes to let it set. Let sit at room temperature until fully set, at least an hour. Alternative: Use 0.5 oz beeswax and 1.5 oz soybean oil and omit lanolin.

Additional Notes:

• In the U.S, the FDA approves camphor for over-the-counter external analgesic drug products at concentrations of 0.1% to 3%. As a pain reliever and mild anesthetic, the FDA approves camphor at concentrations of 3% to 11%. So if the product is labeled as an anti-itch ointment such as Blue Star, you will see camphor listed as the active ingredient at 3% or less but if the product is labeled as a sore muscle rub like Badger and Tiger Balm, then camphor is listed at greater than 3%. These recipes contain 2% camphor. I’ve included this note here to show that you can use more camphor.
• You can substitute any carrier oil that is liquid at room temperature for the soybean oil.

via Flickr user tinyfroglet

For me, mix-at-home cleaners are all about using the least number of products and ingredients, whether it’s synthetic, natural, or somewhere in between. I do not use natural soap, lemon juice, cream of tartar, club soda, or many food stuffs that you might come across in ‘natural’ or ‘green’ cleaning recipes. Oftentimes, you can usually find a much cheaper and debatably ‘greener’ alternative to the natural cleaners.

Lemons, for example, don’t fall off trees where I live and using lemons to clean is a waste of a valuable food source; use vinegar instead. That’s also how I feel about most foods used as cleaners. If you think of all the resources that go into producing the food item, it just seems very wasteful to not eat it.

I also see castile soap in many homemade housecleaners. As I mentioned previously, soap may be more natural than synthetic detergents but if you have hard water like the majority of U.S. households, then you’ll be using much more water and other ingredients and resources to get the cleaning job done. When you look at the ingredients of major ‘green’ cleaners like Mrs. Meyer’s, Seventh Generation, and Ecover, notice that surfactants and water are their main cleaning agents. Not soap. Soap nuts may be the most environmental cleaning agent but I have not researched nor experimented enough using them as a household cleaner, just laundering.

I don’t use the typical ingredients in mainstream homemade ‘green’ cleaners. Hence, I’ll call these the Minimalist’s housecleaning recipes; I clean my entire house regularly with just 6 basic products/ingredients:

• liquid non-chlorine laundry detergent free of dyes and fragrance
• handwashing dish liquid
• borax
• baking soda
• regular distilled white vinegar solution – 5% acetic acid concentration
• water!

Water with and without liquid surfactant is the base of most of my homemade cleaners. Most other ingredients are what you’d typically find in a well stocked laundry room. It works, it’s safe, and I chose this method with good reason – read the detailed post here.

The Basics: General Cleaners for Around the House

Related post here.

All-purpose cleaner: Fill a standard 32-oz spray bottle with water. Add 1 tsp liquid chlorine-free, dye and fragrance free, laundry detergent. Shake before each use.

Multi-purpose vinegar solution: In a standard 32-oz spray bottle, add 1 cup vinegar. Fill the rest with water.

Duster: Spritz multi-purpose vinegar solution onto Swiffer or lint-free rag.

Glass and mirror cleaner: Equal squirts of all-purpose cleaner and multi-purpose vinegar solution. Wipe clean or squeegee.

Air freshener: In a small spray bottle (I use a 3 fl. oz spritzer), fill 1 part rubbing alcohol to two part water. Add about 10 drops of essential oil(s).

Wipes: Have a big stash of shop cloth terry towels and old cut-up t-shirt squares (or any cotton jersey fabric). Designate a laundry bin or trash can to hold all used wipes. When filled, launder together on hot wash cycle, optionally add borax and/or bleach.

Soil and stain remover: Spot treat. Detailed post here.

For the Kitchen

Use either liquid laundry detergent or hand dishwashing liquid as the base for your kitchen cleaners.

All-purpose kitchen surface cleaner: Use all-purpose cleaner (above) or for tougher stains, wipe or scrub with sponge, hot water, and a small squirt of hand dishwashing liquid. Wipe off with dish rag.

Basic degreaser: Same as all-purpose kitchen surface cleaner but with more dishwashing liquid.

Heavy-duty degreaser: For tough grease and dust build-up and most sticky residue, first use a cloth to rub on cooking oil (used oil if you have it on hand) to dissolve the grease. Then, follow with Basic degreaser.

Oven cleaner: First, scrape whatever you can with a plastic baker’s dough scraper or some other tough, yet scratch resistant tool. Then, sprinkle with baking soda and scrub with sponge, hot water, and dishwashing liquid. Wipe off with dish rag. Repeat as necessary. Follow with multi-purpose vinegar solution spray and wipe off. Repeat as necessary until you’ve wiped off the dishwashing liquid residue.

Kitchen appliance cleaner: Same as all-purpose kitchen surface cleaner, using degreasers as needed.

Mineral build-up (i.e. on refrigerator water dispenser): If the tray is removable, soak in distilled white vinegar. If not, spray vinegar. Let stand at least 30 minutes.

Coffee maker: Pour equal parts vinegar and water into reservoir. Brew. Turn off and let cool, about 30 minutes. Discard vinegar water solution or repurpose (i.e. soak anything that needs mineral build-up removed). Brew a couple more times with plain water.

For the Bathroom

Sinks and countertops: Use all-purpose cleaner.

Mirror: Use glass and mirror cleaner above.

Toilet: On the seats and outside, spray all-purpose cleaner. Use lots of single-use wipes to wipe clean, then toss with other used wipes to be laundered together on hot wash cycle. On the inside, lay toilet brush inside the bowl first. Squirt liquid detergent onto brush, then sprinkle with borax. Optionally add bleach to the water. Scrub the inside rim first. Wet with clean toilet water as needed.

Bathtub: Sprinkle lightly with borax. Squirt liquid detergent onto damp no-scratch scour pad. Clean basin first, adding water as needed. Then, use the scour pad now soaked with detergent and borax to clean the walls. Rinse off with water.

Floor cleaners

Carpet deodorizer: Sprinkle with baking soda before vacuuming. Store baking soda in a large, old spice container. Optionally add a few drops of essential oil.

Tile and sealed concrete floor cleaner: Vacuum or sweep first. Fill bucket with 1 tbsp of liquid detergent to 1 gallon of very hot tap water. Optionally add essential oil. Mop. Optionally and occasionally follow mop with a vinegar rinse solution of 1 part distilled white vinegar to 3 parts water.

Surface-sealed wood and bamboo floor cleaner: Vacuum or sweep first. Mop with water only; use damp mop, not soaking wet. Optionally follow with dry mop. Basically, minimize moisture. Spot clean with all-purpose cleaner and dry immediately.

Heavy duty cleaners: If you have carpeting, it’s worth investing in a deep cleaner. Deep clean at least twice a year. I bought a Hoover SteamVac Carpet Cleaner with Clean Surge about 10 years ago for less than $150 and have been very happy with it. You can also use it to clean upholstery, drapery, tile, and surface sealed concrete floors. Its 12 amp motor is powerful enough for the job. It does not have a heating element like some of the newer, more expensive deep cleaners. It is not worth the extra cost to get the added heat; hot tap water works great. Besides, having a heating element just adds unnecessary complication and is one more thing that can break. I’ve also never used the Hoover detergent that it came with and always cleaned with a solution of 1 tbsp liquid detergent to 1 gallon of very hot tap water and several drops of essential oils.

Note on Disinfectants

Trying to rid yourself and your environment of all germs is practically impossible because we don’t live in a bubble! Basic cleanliness using soap or detergent and water is all that’s needed for regular cleaning in a healthy household. Disinfecting was never meant to be a regular household practice. Decades of disinfecting and antibacterial product use have not proven that we are healthier. In fact, many suggests we are ‘sicker’; our germophobic mentality reduced our exposure to normal levels of microbes, thereby weakening our immune system. I cover the subject of microbes in detail in a series of posts here. Nonetheless, if you feel the need to disinfect on the rare occasion, mix anywhere from 3/4 tsp to 6 tbsp of regular unscented 5.25% household bleach with 32 fl-oz of water in a spray bottle. Clean as usual, then follow with the disinfectant. No need to replace or purchase cleaners with disinfectants already in them.

Note on Essential Oils

Use them if you like the scent. I do not use them for their antibacterial or anti-fungal properties but if they happen to have those qualities, great! Citrus, herbal, and woodsy essential oils are common scents in cleaners.

First thing you need to know is that it’s all about your water. Soap or a surfactant combined with water is the base of most cleaners. But its effectiveness is very much dependent on your water source which is in turn dependent on your geography. If you are harvesting and using rainwater, then cleaning with just plain ole soap, water, and elbow grease like people did back in the old days would work just fine. But times have changed and part of modernization means most of us get our water through municipal water systems which in turn get their supply mostly from groundwater and surface water. Water from these sources flow through soil and rock, picking up minerals along the way before reaching our water lines. The amount of these minerals, mainly calcium and magnesium, is what determines water hardness. Hard water is not a health hazard but it does make cleaning a nuisance. Soap is more affected by hard water than detergent since it reacts with the minerals to form a greasy curd, soap scum, that’s insoluble in water. More soap may clean more but also leaves behind more soap scum. With detergents however, you can usually use more to counterbalance the effects of hard water. Here’s a good site that describes basic soap and detergent chemistry.

The majority of households in the U.S. has hard water. That means that unless you’re softening the water in some way, cleaning with soap and water isn’t going to get the job done. Softening your water (by installing a water softener or adding borax or washing soda) and then following with a vinegar rinse will help soap clean significantly better. But the drawbacks are that you’re using more resources – water, your time, money, etc… and increasing the salinity/sodium content of your used water. The latter may not be such a concern if you’re plugged into your local sewer system but if you have a septic tank or greywater system to reclaim and reuse your water, then you definitely want to limit and control your water’s sodium content.

Surfactants have come a long way and are not as hazardous as they were back in the fifties. Surfactants today are also much more biodegradable, enough to be suitable for reuse as greywater. Not all surfactants are created equal. If you have hard water, then choosing a detergent with the least environmental hazard for your area and use condition is much more environmental and effective at cleaning than using soap. I wish there was a site to rate all the detergents available to us here in the U.S. so we can make more of an informed decision on which detergent to choose. Australians and New Zealanders have Lanfax Labs to thank for their in-depth research and very useful information on detergents commercially available down under. As for the rest of us, just stick with a mild liquid detergent. Liquids and powders are built differently. In general, liquid detergents are less alkaline and less corrosive than powders. That means liquids are gentler on your fabrics and surfaces but it also means that they don’t clean as well as powders. Then again, it is better to spot treat soils than to use a strong cleaner allover.

Water is called the “universal solvent” because it dissolves more substances than any other liquid. Water alone can clean most dirt and non-greasy food mess so long as it’s still fresh. Add surfactants to water and you can clean almost everything around your house. Heat and a little bit of elbow grease also helps. Basically, make your homemade cleaners from commercially available laundering products that you’re already using to clean your clothes. Use common additives like borax and refer to laundering do’s and don’ts for proper usage and knowing what you can or cannot mix together. Examples: Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia, vinegar or anything acidic; it’s okay to mix borax and baking soda with detergent; vinegar solution and detergent is also fine. Stick with simple mixtures and basic chemistry. When you stick with laundering products, not only does it work but these products come with safety guidelines and you’re less likely to mix two unknown chemicals.

As of January 2010, the Consumer Product Communication Initiative Program took effect as a volunteer program within the household product manufacturers industry to inform consumers about the ingredients in their products. Not only is this useful for evaluating store-bought products but you can use this information to safely mix your own cleaners so long as you stick to common laundering products. No, you probably won’t achieve the same product, but you’ll get good enough cleaning power. Take for example Seventh Generation. Notice the similarity between their liquid detergents and all-purpose cleaners. So, if you’re already using their detergent, simply mix one tsp of it with 32 oz of water for a similar all-purpose cleaner.

The SDA site lists just some of the participants with links directly to the manufacturer’s websites. Another good site is the Household Products Database through the U.S. Dept. of Health and Services. There is also the Consumer Product Information Database which seems redundant but still worth a mention. Notice how water and surfactants make up a large portion of everyday cleaners. Many of the other ingredients exist to enhance the cleaning power of water and/or surfactants. And of course, there are those that are unnecessary for cleaning, like fragrance and dyes.

In the next post will be my homemade cleaning recipes (using mostly laundering products of course). Finally!

There are many ways to categorize soils and soils usually fit under several categories. You can get pretty technical and delve into the chemistry and science of stain removal. Or do what I do and start with the easiest stain fighting solutions first.

• I. For most food and outdoor stains:
  • A. Use liquid detergent at full strength, diluted as in the homemade all-purpose cleaner, or anywhere in between. If that doesn’t work, then
  • B. Work a small amount of borax in with the liquid detergent (full strength or diluted). Borax softens hard water thereby helping detergents remove soils more effectively. Optionally follow with vinegar rinse to neutralize the alkalinity. If that doesn’t work, then
  • C. Pretreat stain with an enzyme digester (protease, bromalain, amylase) as found in meat tenderizer, juice of pineapple (preferably the core), human saliva (yes!), or a laundry stain removal product that contains enzyme digesters such as Zout. Follow with liquid detergent (full strength or diluted). Some liquid detergents already have enzymes added. Enzyme digesters work on protein stains like eggs, meat, and dairy. Use warm, not hot water as the heat will kill the enzymes. Do not use on silk, cashmere, or leather as they will break down the fibers.
• II. For greasy, oily, non-water soluble stains:
  • A. ‘Like dissolves like’ so use liquid oil such as cooking oil or mineral oil to dissolve the sticky, greasy residue first. Then, follow with soap, dish liquid, or detergent. If that doesn’t work, then
  • B. Use a solvent such as isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Many laundry stain removers also contain solvents. Follow with liquid detergent (full strength or diluted). Solvents dissolve the non-water soluble residue to make it easier for the detergent to lift and remove the stains.
• III. If none of the above works, use an oxidizer to bleach the stain (but doesn’t actually remove it):
  • A. Treat with detergent, then dry in sunlight. Or,
  • B. Treat with detergent and hydrogen peroxide, then dry in sunlight. Or,
  • C. Use Oxiclean powder (free of dyes and fragrance). Follow product directions. Or,
  • Z. If all else fails and you can’t tolerate the stain, use chlorine bleach. Follow product directions. Never mix with ammonia nor vinegar. Bleach is safe to use with laundry detergents and borax.

Notes:

• Fresh stains are easier to remove than old, dry stains.
• Make sure your cleaning ingredient is compatible with the fabric or surface being cleaned.
• Most laundry detergents are alkaline based and most stains are acidic. So, laundry detergents are usually all that’s needed to neutralize stains.
• The pH of some stains, such as perspiration and urine, vary greatly. Fresh stains may start with an acidic pH, older stains all become alkaline. If plain liquid detergent does not remove the stain, pretreat with detergent and a small amount of borax for fresh stains or vinegar for older stains to neutralize the stains. Rinse and rewash with detergent cleaner.
• Take clue from laundering do’s and don’ts.

Clothing, carpet, upholstery, fabric window treatment, and tablecloth soils can all be treated with common laundry products. After all, they are all fibers – synthetic, natural, or blends. Usually, if it works on fabric, it works on most non-porous surfaces around the house. Here are some additional resources:

• Purex Stain Guide: This is an excellent site for troubleshooting stain. Although the guide is geared towards fabric, you can easily adapt to suit most surfaces.
• Crayola Stain Guide: Crayons and colored drawing implements are usually harder to remove as they’re made up of more complex substances. This guide features many commercial stain removal products and can be useful when none of the simple stuff works. However, I usually find that a little borax or baking soda mixed with detergent will remove most water soluble Crayola products. Cooking oil or rubbing alcohol or WD-40 (which contains primarily solvents) followed by detergent will remove the other non-water soluble products. Many makeup stains can be removed similarly.

My soil and stain removal kit is a mixture of natural and synthetic ingredients. I simply strive to use the least amount of products and ingredients in the smallest quantities needed to get the job done. To sum up, my list includes:

• liquid laundry detergent
• borax
• baking soda
• vinegar
• multi-purpose laundry stain removal product like Zout
• liquid oil such as cooking oil or mineral oil
• rubbing alcohol
• WD-40
• hydrogen peroxide
• Oxiclean
• chlorine bleach

My must-have list is surprisingly short:

• vinegar
• baking soda
• chlorine-free laundry detergent – surfactants

Unlike many homemade household cleaning recipes, I do not use soap. Soap is wonderful on our bodies but it does not make an efficient household cleaning product. It tends to leave a thin film, scum or grime behind that can build up quickly over time. Detergents, on the other hand, are very effective and efficient cleaners. Due to its man-made molecular structure, surfactants (surface acting agents) simultaneously adhere to the soils and reduce the water surface tension to loosen the soil. Not all laundry detergents are equal. Choose those that contain the fewest additives and still get the job done, i.e. free of dyes, fragrance, etc… Personally, I use the Costco/Kirkland Ultra Free&Clear liquid detergent for all my homemade cleaners and some of my laundering (soap nuts powder for the rest).

Simple all-purpose cleaner: mix 1 teaspoon of non-chlorine, very basic, liquid laundry detergent with 32 fl. oz. water. Did you know that most all-purpose cleaners are simply surfactants diluted in water? They differ in concentration and additives (to boost cleaning power). For a homemade version of all-purpose cleaner, stick with just the basic detergent in water.

At a minimum, I dust, vacuum, and wipe surfaces on a weekly basis using the following:

• Dust: spray a little vinegar on a lint-free cloth or Swiffer.
• Vacuum: sprinkle carpet and pet area with baking soda beforehand.
• Wipe: spray with all-purpose cleaner and wipe down with a rag. For mirrors and glass, spray vinegar along with the all-purpose cleaner. You can mix them so long as the detergent does not contain chlorine.

Storage tips:

• vinegar – spray bottle – pink/red to indicate acid pH
• baking soda – large spice container
• all-purpose cleaner: spray bottle – blue to indicate base pH (detergents are usually alkaline)

The 32-oz garden sprayers are ideal for storing homemade household cleaners.

Kitchen and bath receive extra attention as does stain removal. I will cover these in a later post.

IKEA Potty

This past weekend, I found stackfuls of one-piece infant potties at IKEA for $3.99 but were on sale for $1.99!!! They looked stable and easy to clean. I’m glad to see how readily available they are now, about four years too late for me. Maybe they’ve been around for awhile but I just don’t find myself at IKEA often. Infant potties are a must not just for potty training but for kids-on-the-go in our fast-paced modern world. I always carry one in my car.

Low Maintenance Versatile Plants

If you’re wondering about my absence from the virtual world lately, it’s because I’ve been knee deep in my garden. The weather here has been absolutely gorgeous! In many ways, I much prefer to garden in the Fall than in the Spring. It is the best time to:

• get your plants in and/or plan out your garden for the Spring – the nurseries are also not as busy as in the Spring and thus, more kid-friendly
• get those beautiful Spring blooming wildflower seeds in. My favorites (poppies, larkspur, and of course the bluebonnets) can only be enjoyed in the Spring if you plan ahead and direct sow those seeds in this year.
• propagate!

My favorite trio of low maintenance versatile plants pictured above are (from left to right) flowering rosemary, lemongrass, and salvia greggi. They are all evergreen for year round color, can tolerate both heat and partial shade, attract wildlife but are deer-resistant, require little watering, and suppress weeds. Plus, the rosemary and lemongrass are edible and the rosemary and salvia both produce flowers for a large part of the year.

Some related posts:

• Local Austin garden resources
• Family gardening
• Rose propagation
• Cheap, space-saving seasonal ‘greenhouse’

If I didn’t already have plans this weekend, I would be dragging my family to the 7th Annual Garden Festival of Roses at the Antique Rose Emporium in San Antonio. By the way, it was from the owner Mike Shoup’s rose book, Landscaping with Antique Roses (no longer in print) where I (re)discovered my passion for roses and learned how to propagate and double my collection. He will also be teaching the art of propagating at this event – Saturday at 10am. The Festival is a kid-friendly event.