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Emulsifying Wax vs Stearic Acid

ewax-stacid

Emulsifying wax and stearic acid are very common emulsifying agents in hydrating moisturizers. In my experience, you can use e-wax without stearic acid but not the other way around. Even when you add other emulsifying and thickening agents like xanthan gum, it is difficult to achieve the emulsion you get with emulsifying wax. Substituting a portion of your e-wax with stearic acid gives your lotion more of a silky pearlescent appearance. Using stearic acid is a matter of personal preference. Substitute up to 40% of your total e-wax concentration.

In the picture above, the front left is e-wax only and the other contains 5% e-wax and 3% stearic acid. Here’s another picture: one on the right is the e-wax/stearic acid mix. Forgive me for the terrible pictures.

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Comments

Comment from Anon
Time May 29, 2009 at 12:05 am

When I first found this site, I tried to make a lotion like the 3 ingredient lotion, but couldn’t find e-wax locally so I substituted stearic acid. It was (in geek speak) less than fully optimal.

Since then, I’ve bought some e-wax and made other batches (experimenting a lot with additional ingredients).

From some of what I’ve read, stearic acid is also supposed to thicken and stabilize emulsions.

The lotion I was trying to emulate doesn’t list e-wax in its ingredients, but I’m coming close to emulating it with e-wax and stearic acid.

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